This post is the second in a series I am publishing on hand saw sharpening. Now I know what what you are thinking, "why is the saw post on this blog and on not Arm Strong Tools?". I don't have a good reason for that suffice it say the saw posts will remain here. Okay, enough jibber jabber - here is the meat and potatoes of what transpired tonight.
My new favourite rip saw , a 25 " saw manufactured in Canada by Shurly-Dietrich-Atkins. identified as having 5 1/2 ppi at the factory and Shurly-Dietrich-Atkins named this saw the Maple Leaf No. 152. I don't know how to date this saw so if someone has some info I would love to hear about it.
Sharpening this saw proved to be a little easier because the teeth were very coarse and in pretty good shape to begin with. I followed along with Tom Law once again and took this cutting tool through the steps of jointing,shaping,setting,filing, and side dressing.
Eager to see this saw in action, I cut a 1" piece of fir and watched as the saw dust spilled off the saw teeth. Saw dust is a bit of a misnomer in this particular job. The "saw dust" should not be dust at all, rather very tiny chips of wood that you can see with your naked eye. If there is real dust left after a cutting operation the saw teeth are dull.
This is now a good sharp saw that will cut in a straight line.
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| One antique Canadian rip saw |
This post is the second in a series I am publishing on hand saw sharpening. Now I know what what you are thinking, "why is the saw post on this blog and on not Arm Strong Tools?". I don't have a good reason for that suffice it say the saw posts will remain here. Okay, enough jibber jabber - here is the meat and potatoes of what transpired tonight.
My new favourite rip saw , a 25 " saw manufactured in Canada by Shurly-Dietrich-Atkins. identified as having 5 1/2 ppi at the factory and Shurly-Dietrich-Atkins named this saw the Maple Leaf No. 152. I don't know how to date this saw so if someone has some info I would love to hear about it.
Sharpening this saw proved to be a little easier because the teeth were very coarse and in pretty good shape to begin with. I followed along with Tom Law once again and took this cutting tool through the steps of jointing,shaping,setting,filing, and side dressing.
Eager to see this saw in action, I cut a 1" piece of fir and watched as the saw dust spilled off the saw teeth. Saw dust is a bit of a misnomer in this particular job. The "saw dust" should not be dust at all, rather very tiny chips of wood that you can see with your naked eye. If there is real dust left after a cutting operation the saw teeth are dull.
This is now a good sharp saw that will cut in a straight line.
